Hailing from North Canterbury, where she grew up on a sheep and beef farm, Rachel Shearer has long had an affinity with wool. 

Shearer has been appointed general manager of wool for PGG Wrightson, the first female to head the role for PGW, a name she fondly recalls from her childhood days.

“When I was a little girl, the Pyne Gould Guinness store in our local town of Rangiora was my favourite place to go with Dad.”   

Many years later, it was her father John who played a part in securing a position for her in a business he had worked alongside throughout his farming career. 

“I went to visit my parents for a Sunday roast and he had cut out a job advertisement from the newspaper for the role of GM people and safety at PGW. 

“So I applied, got the role and was fortunate to spend the next eight years on the executive leadership team at PGW as the GM people and safety.” 

While her career may not have taken the most conventional path to becoming the GM of wool, she believes all she has done has led her to where she is today. 

“The fact that my last name is Shearer is definitely not lost on me either.”

Her father is no longer alive, but his influence is a big part of why she is so passionate about working in the ag sector, and for PGW. 

Considered a progressive farmer, he was always looking to make positive change, exploring new ways of doing things to improve his land, stock and business.  

Shearer sees it as her time now to consider the next generation of those coming into the industry. 

“From an early age my brothers and I were helping out on the farm with hay making, tailing, shearing, and working the lambing beat. 

“There was always something to do and much to learn. And it was such a defining moment when my parents decided to sell the farm. 

“I was a teenager and I recall trying to chain myself to the front gate in protest.

“I was devastated to leave as I had imagined myself following in my parents’ footsteps and taking over the farm when I was old enough. 

“However, I moved on, and after doing an Honours degree in journalism and political science at the University of Canterbury, I headed off for my OE.” 

She began her career in recruitment in Sydney, which eventually led her to working for investment banks in London. 

Two years later her brother, who managed rock bands in the United States, said “Banking’s not your passion, why don’t you come work for me in LA?”

She did and the next few years were spent working in music management with an array of American bands.   

A visit home for Christmas changed that.

“I looked back at what I was doing in the US and realised the entertainment industry and Hollywood wasn’t my reality. Home was where I wanted to be.”

It was back home in Christchurch that she secured an in-house human resources role for a mining company. It ended up going into voluntary administration a few years later, at which time Shearer was the GM human resources. 

“It was certainly tough but also career defining as there was no playbook for navigating our way through. 

“As we were winding up that organisation in 2016, I secured the job with PGW.” 

Responsible for all people- and safety-related activities for the 2000 PGW team members across the country, and as a member of the executive leadership team, Shearer was kept busy.

A couple of years ago chief executive Stephen Guerin began investing in her strategic leadership and governance development, which has led to her GM Wool position. She is also executive director of bidr.

Alongside Guerin, she was assisting Grant Edwards to develop a revised strategy for the wool business up until his untimely death earlier this year.

Shearer was offered Edwards’s role on an acting basis and while it was a difficult time with him gone so suddenly, she said the legacy he and other industry stalwarts left behind was evident. 

“The business was able to continue on and I think this is a testament of strong leadership, that even when you’re not there, the team continues to operate to their best. 

“Grant was instrumental in helping us contemplate the future of the wool industry and now we are carrying forward many of his thoughts and ideas to put together a comprehensive plan.” 

While it was an unexpected shift, Shearer was keen for the challenge and on reflection can see how much of her previous work experience led her to where she is today. 

“As varied as my background may sound, when you reach senior leadership, it’s really interesting to look back and see the number of things that you take from each manager and job you’ve had. 

“I often joke about my time in LA as a left-field career break and you wouldn’t think there would be anything remotely related to running a wool business, but some of it does really round out what I do now. 

“I firmly believe in taking opportunities and addressing challenges as they present themselves. Following values, passion and purpose are extremely important to me.”

Now at the helm of a heritage brand in an iconic New Zealand industry, Shearer is keen to ensure PGW Wool adapts and grows as a business to help secure a future “for this incredible, sustainable fibre and its growers”. 

“I grew up sitting in front of the fire with A Dog’s Show on and the sound of Mum spinning or knitting wool from our flock into jumpers. 

“Our son was born premature so was in the neonatal intensive care unit and once out of his incubator we made sure to dress him head to toe in Merino. 

“I remember the doctor saying the success of his growth rate was indicative of a child being wrapped in wool. We buried my father in a wool coffin. 

“I feel I’ve experienced the full life cycle of wool, and while I know I’m not going to single-handedly solve all the challenges of the industry, I’m passionate about what our strategy and roadmap looks like to ensure we play our part to help elevate NZ wool in the modern world.”

She said she doesn’t feel an extra responsibility of being a woman in the leadership position, but over the years she has become more comfortable leaning into what it means to bring her authentic self to work. 

“When I became a new mum, I had to understand and embrace what I brought to the table and I realised that being successful is more about your output and influence. 

“It was about changing my mindset, saying no to things that aren’t important in order to deliver to my best abilities as a mum, partner and general manager. 

“I am conscious, although not overtly, that I’m in a job which has traditionally been held by a man. 

“I see my role is to help open the door for other women to join me in operational leadership roles. But it’s definitely not a burdensome feeling, it’s one of optimism.” 

And if there is one thing that will never fail to motivate Shearer in her career, it’s the wise words of her dad. 

“One of my favourite sayings that I got from him was ‘If you don’t like change, you’re going to like irrelevancy even less,’ and this is the opportunity I choose to see in leading our wool team: the opportunity to sustainably set ourselves up to play our part in the future of a successful NZ wool industry.” 

In Focus Podcast | Sheep outlook: the future of our flock

Sheep farmers are doing it tough right now, with farmgate returns dropping back after a few good years and input costs rising. Add to that the march of pine trees across the land, and there’s talk of an existential crisis. Bryan asked AgriHQ senior analyst Mel Croad to give him the lay of the land and asked her what the sector needed to do to find prosperity again.

The simple supply and demand curve ruled the fortnightly auction in Napier this week with sellers emerging as the grinners. 

PGW North Island procurement and sales manager Steve Fussell said the number of bales offered this sale was around 40% under the rostered amount planned.

“With a full bench of buyers, the sale ended most certainly in sellers’ favour as longer wool types held the most demand, with second-shear wool facing strong bidding throughout the sale,” Fussell said. 

Crossbred fleece lifted 4% with good style selling at $3.55/kg (clean), average style $3.40 and poorer $3.17 while second-shear ranged in price from good style longer length at $3.38 down to shorter average style at $3.17.  

Looking across the board, PGW general manager wool Rachel Shearer said the wool market has seen mixed results see-sawing across both islands of recent weeks with some auctions favouring sellers and others tipping in buyers’ favour. 

Highlights include fierce competition for specialty wools and a buzz around fine wool in Christchurch, thanks to international interest.

The latest trends from the wool auction have generally seen specialty wool types sparking intense bidding, with strong demand driving prices higher.

In the South Island, the recent Christchurch sale marked the first of the weighted fine wool offerings for the season. 

One of the main Australian wool exporters entered the fray, adding extra competition and a noticeable buying buzz to the room.

“The result was an upbeat atmosphere and almost a full clearance of lots in the sellers’ favour. 

“Some Merino growers, seated in the room, watched as their wool went under the hammer, generally seeing positive results.”

However, crossbred wool offerings in the south continued to favour the buyers, similar to trends seen in the North Island throughout August. 

A limited supply of this type of wool kept the market steady, but it remains to be seen whether pricing will improve as the season progresses, Shearer said.

One surprising trend across both islands has been the stronger-than-expected prices for lower-quality wools, both fleece and oddment types. 

India has been particularly active in this market, although the rising New Zealand dollar appears to be creating a bit of a standoff with demand from India beginning to taper off. 

The Chinese market has also been chasing these lower-grade wools, which has helped elevate prices to date. 

“With fewer crossbreds expected on the market over the next few months, the dynamics may remain steady, but whether this translates into better pricing for the entire season is still unclear,” Shearer said.

In Focus Podcast | Sheep outlook: the future of our flock

Sheep farmers are doing it tough right now, with farmgate returns dropping back after a few good years and input costs rising. Add to that the march of pine trees across the land, and there’s talk of an existential crisis. Bryan asked AgriHQ senior analyst Mel Croad to give him the lay of the land and asked her what the sector needed to do to find prosperity again.

Campaign for Wool NZ’s chair Ryan Cosgrove has used machine learning, a branch of artificial intelligence, to identify what strong wool attributes are key to maximising returns.

Cosgrove, who is also the head of sourcing and materials for Mons Royale, and co-founder of Fusca, a wool sales data platform, recently published a paper outlining his methods and findings.

The paper, A Statistical Analysis of New Zealand Strong Wool Sold at Auction Between 2022 and 2024, showed that colour, micron and length are critical factors affecting wool prices. 

Colour was, however, shown to be the most deterministic feature of price by far, accounting for 48% of price variability, regardless of other external economic factors. 

For the paper, data from January 1^st 2022 to June 30^th 2024 was analysed. 

The periods are significant and affect what attribute of strong wool is the most important, he said.

When Cosgrove moved the lens to 2013-2015, micron was the biggest driver of value.

“I chose the most recent years because it’s what we’re exposed to now. If you say 48% of the variance in price comes from colour, that’s something a grower can use right now.” 

Cosgrove said as a wool trader he was always frustrated at the lack of sophistication used to analyse data.

“Every week we used pen and paper to value and put a price on wool. We’d invoice by hand. None of the data was analysed. I thought, if only I could find a method to do that, so I turned to machine learning to have a look.”

He used two machine learning methods,  Random Forest  Regression (RFR) and Gradient Boosting Analysis (GBA) to build accurate models predicting wool prices, across short periods of consistent economic conditions. 

He wrote the code for the models himself.

Machine learning can be used to constantly update growers on what aspects are more important to focus on at farm level, he said.

Efforts should be concentrated on achieving consistent colour and optimal micron through genetic selection, improved grazing management, and careful handling practices, he said.

Continued focus on reducing vegetable matter contamination will further enhance wool quality and value, the methods showed. 

“The findings allow farmers to make more informed choices about farm management practices and to focus production and handling where it matters most.”

The GBA model was able to create a model where 91% of the variability of the wool price could be explained.

“Analysis aims to uncover how controllable variables, such as wool colour, length, vegetable matter, and micron, as well as uncontrollable variables like month and the NZD:USD exchange rate impact the market price of wool and to use these insights to optimise practices both on the farm and during wool preparation.”

While most brands looked at wool through the lens of increasing wool value or offering a new product and changing demand to try to improve the value for farmers, the machine learning methods are ignorant of economic factors and market demand.

But they use data to “tell growers, here are things you can do to make sure you’re at the top end of the bell curve, that you’re always maximising the value regardless of the market. Instead of just hoping the market is good next year. 

“The research provides a powerful new tool to analyse wool markets. By understanding and leveraging these predictive models, markets may be stabilised, quality improved and profitability boosted across the industry.”

In future Cosgrove aims to include other variables, such as environmental conditions and market trends, to improve the predictive capability of the models. 

I’m certainly over all the experts and politicians telling me what a great product wool is. I’m also over reading about our representatives going to international trade shows and conferences, rapturously selling the advantages of using New Zealand wool. 

Wool is a magnificent product, we all know that, but my approach would be to develop a strategy to promote wool that goes back to basics.

We should be thinking outside the square and not continuing with the failed policies of the past.

We all know that wool ticks all the boxes regarding the environment and sustainability but that hasn’t been enough to encourage the purchasing of wool products and that needs to change.

For example, while researching this article I came upon a report from 2022 telling me that the United Nations Environmental Agency had agreed to develop a plan aimed at ending plastic pollution. The competition for wool is plastic in its many forms. 

I read that “Heads of state, ministers for the environment and other representatives from UN member states endorsed the resolution to proceed with the plan.”

Our Ministry for the Environment (MfE) said in June this year that we were “working with other countries on an international treaty on plastic pollution”.

It went on to outline the problem that “every year 19-23 million tonnes of plastic waste leaks into aquatic systems alone, harming marine life and ecosystems”.

The cynic in me would suggest that if that pollution came from the agricultural sector it would be front page news but because it comes from the oil industry that’s fine.

The prime minister’s Chief Science Adviser, Professor Juliet Gerrard, has been concerned about the amount of pollution that plastics have created and published her views on our options to reduce the problem.

They include wanting a National Plastics Plan, rethinking plastics in the government agenda and the need to mitigate environmental and health impacts of plastics.

According to the UN, microplastics have “infiltrated our oceans, soil and even the air we breathe”, and “humans constantly inhale and ingest microplastics”.

Microplastics “are linked to serious health issues such as endocrine disruption, weight gain, insulin resistance, decreased reproductive health and cancer”.

In addition, 8 million tonnes of plastic flow into the oceans annually with a correspondingly toxic effect on fish. These include severely affecting marine life and microplastics residing in tissue waiting to be consumed by a third party. Plastic is also a problem with our soil as the product in landfills can “take up to 1000 years to disintegrate”.

In the United States, 32 million tonnes of plastic goes into the landfills annually and will remain there for 1000 years.

Microplastics can also have a major effect on our flora and fauna and can be present in tap water.

Imagine for a minute if that amount of pollution had been generated by farming pursuits? There would be riots in the streets.

There has been much hue and cry about nitrates in waterways but the reality is microplastics are much worse. People wring their hands about glyphosate but it is more environmentally friendly than plastic.

We need to front-foot the issue by strongly arguing for the environmental friendliness of wool versus the environmental degradation caused by plastics. 

We tax fuel, why not tax plastics? Synthetic carpets would be a good start. We limit nitrogen application, why don’t we limit plastic use?

We were going to tax food production. Why not tax plastic pollution?

We tax alcohol and tobacco because of the harmful effects on health. Why not tax plastics for the same reason?

The only reason I knew about the proposed UN policy on plastics was from personal research and not from mainstream publications. I only figured we were a signatory by going through the MfE website.

Again, it was private research that showed me how environmentally destructive plastic was, how it was a major risk to our land, oceans and human health. Those stories need to be shouted from the rooftops.

As an aside, we shouldn’t pursue the issue on our own but should present it as a campaign from the wool-producing countries. Like what used to happen before New Zealand decided to go alone.

In the current debate rankings I’d give the oil companies 10 and the conservation and farming lobbies zero.

How I came onto the story was from a Greenpeace missive asking me to sign a petition opposing plastics. It called on the NZ government “to support a strong Global Plastics Treaty at the UN”. At the time of writing it had over 73,000 signatures, which should tell us that there is strong support for a move away from plastics.

That also tells me that we need to tell the story of wool a lot better than we are currently doing.

Maybe even a visit to Greenpeace to tell them what’s missing in their debate.

New Zealand’s Lanaco has signed a deal with Unilever-owned air purifier manufacturer Blueair for its world-leading natural, renewable woollen air filter.

The company has hailed the new partnership as a truly significant step in the commercialisation of its Ecostatic wool filters and a boost for the air purifier market that has previously relied on synthetic air filters.

Ecostatic wool filters have made it into outer space on NASA rockets for Moon and Mars missions, and were part of the facemasks that kept the New Zealand team at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics free of covid-19. Now they have found a home on Earth.

Lanaco founder and chief executive Nick Davenport said the partnership with Blueair, a leading Swedish air wellness pioneer, represents a step-change in the global air filtration market. 

Blueair is the first to integrate Lanaco’s natural, renewable New Zealand wool fibre-based EcoStatic technology into its range of portable air purifiers.

“Blueair’s dedication to innovation, sustainability and quality resonates with our core values at Lanaco,” Davenport said.

“Our company has developed wool-based filter media because wool provides both the basis for true performance and the best sustainability credentials. We are thrilled that our partnership with Blueair captures this capability whilst also recognising the environmental benefits of woollen filters as well.

“Just as Icebreaker did for wool clothing, Lanaco is bringing its branded New Zealand wool technology to the global filtration market by partnering with one of Europe’s greatest consumer goods companies.”

Blueair chief executive Andy Lu said partnering with Lanaco to produce the industry’s first woollen, biodegradable filter is not just a milestone for Blueair, “but a transformative moment for the entire air purification industry”.

Lanaco’s EcoStatic electrostatic filter technology is uniquely supported by the established Ovis Global Astino sheep breeding programme, which is pivotal in its success as wool with superior filtration performance is being bred for. 

This initiative presents a long-term growth opportunity for the farming sector, with thousands of tonnes of New Zealand wool potentially benefiting from this scientifically sophisticated application of wool as a novel biomaterial.

In Focus Podcast | Meeting the market in the US and EU

Roving reporter Neal Wallace calls in from Brussels to share insights on the first week of his Meeting the Market tour. He’s been in the United States where some of our biggest customers are, including Mars and McDonald’s. Neal says they love NZ food but there are a couple of things we need to improve if we’re to remain as a supplier of first-choice.

Few could argue against the government aspiration of New Zealand being predator-free by 2050, but for a specialist yarn manufacturer the policy created a few ruffles.

Woolyarns makes specialty machine-knit, hand-knit and weaving yarn and, since the early 2000s, possum fibre has been a staple for its Perino yarns that also use Merino wool and silk fibres.

Woolyarns manager Andy May said in 1999 the company produced about 2000kg of Perino yarns a year, but today it’s over 120,000kg.

The possum fibre industry contributes about $150m a year to the NZ economy through retail sales, he said.

The company has pioneered technology that enables it to produce a range of  possum and wool yarn blends, but the risk of NZ becoming predator-free or the possum population being significantly reduced, prompted a look for alternative fibres.

It identified cashmere, most of which currently comes from China, Mongolia, Iran and Afghanistan.

May believes NZ has an opportunity to increase its cashmere fibre production, which he said the market wants because of the country’s farming capability and integrity.

In addition to the goats controlling weeds and improving pasture, he said cashmere fibre can provide an extra source of income for sheep and beef farmers without compromising stock numbers.

Cashmere is a $4 billion global industry with an estimated 3 million kilogrammes of the fibre used in textiles each year. One Scottish mill alone uses 400,000kg a  year. 

May, who is based at Woolyarns’ Lower Hutt factory and is also the executive director of the wholly owned subsidiary NZ Cashmere, said high-end global fashion manufacturers have told him they want alternative and reliable sources of cashmere.

They also want farming practices that meet their sustainability, production and animal welfare standards, benchmarks he said NZ farmers already largely meet.

He has met with owners of some of the world’s leading brands, such Hermès, Gucci, Givenchy, and Johnstons of Elgin.

In many cases the usual 30-minute sales meeting lasted several hours as he was quizzed on NZ’s ability to produce cashmere fibre to their requirements, such is the importance they place on finding alternative sources of fibre.

Discussions ended with the question “When can NZ start supplying significant volumes of cashmere?”

The answer, according to May, is ‘Not yet’, as Woolyarns has insufficient volume, but it is working to grow supply.

NZ currently farms about 8000 cashmere goats with many farmers in the expansion phase and working to improve the quality of their fibre.

Their target is to clip 250-350 grams of cashmere per animal.

Fibre prices are currently $110 to $150/kg depending on micron, which ranges from 14.5 to 18.

May believes by 2030 NZ could have 50,000 cashmere goats but that would still only provide less than 15,000kg of cashmere.

“We’re not going to take over the world here but we will win in the end because we have got all those supporting qualities and accreditation that high-end brands want.”

Possum fibre is still a key product for Woolyarns, which has invested in the supply chain to ensure a source of product and to ensure trappers follow best practice.

It is a key investment to ensure supply and quality standards, he said.

Similarly, Woolyarns is working with cashmere goat farmers to build partnerships.

“We have a history of investing back in the supply chain because we know what brands want.”

About five years ago South Otago farmer and cashmere goat enthusiast David Shaw began to scale up the sector, citing benefits in weed control and unsatisfied markets for the fibre.

There was a brief, albeit uncoordinated, spike in interest in the sector in the 1980s and 1990s when farmed goat numbers reached an estimated 1 million.

A lack of structure and mixed quality meant it became unviable and it effectively morphed into a cottage industry.

In 2021 Shaw and Woolyarns launched NZ Cashmere, an entity Woolyarns subsequently bought outright.

It has since invested in growing the industry behind the farm gate, and spent $3 million on bespoke machinery that cleans the fibre and removes the guard hair ahead of processing.

“Having that machinery here is a massive investment and really I think is the key to the whole industry outside what is happening on the farm,” he said.

With assistance from the government’s Sustainable Farming Fund, it invested $900,000 over three years in understanding and promoting how to farm goats and how they fit into an existing livestock farming systems, as well as providing information and advice for those wanting to farm them.

The brief explosion of interest in the cashmere fibre in the 1980s was also driven by the notion that you manage goats like sheep, which May said is something to avoid.

Research commissioned by NZ Cashmere shows that given access to unimproved areas infested with weeds, a 3000 stock unit farm can run 300 goats alongside existing stock numbers.

Goats eat 15 more plant species than sheep and May said studies show they can use up to 25% of hill country forage that would normally go to waste. 

Goats are happy to live on weeds and research shows when they have access to clover, it provides less than 2% of their diet.

Farmers are increasingly using them to control weeds such as gorse, blackberry and thistles and to tidy lamb finishing feed, which reduces the cost of chemicals, labour and fuel.

They tend to eat from the chest up and the head down, leaving better quality feed untouched.

Farmers – some very sceptical – have told May that goats have transformed areas that were previously impenetrable due to weeds or that they have improved the quality of lamb and cattle finishing pasture, while also generating extra income.

A mated doe costs about $120 and traits such as fibre colour, weight, diameter and down length are highly heritable.

May said Shaw’s long-term commitment to the sector ensures there are high-quality genetics available.

The one issue prospective farmers will have address is containment, but May said trial and error shows the animals quickly learn to respect electric shocks so an electric fence will often suffice.

Select meat companies are already processing goat meat and say they could handle more should numbers increase.

It is the complementary role of goats on farms that most excites May.

“To see what they can do, helping farmers to save costs and provide an extra source of revenue, excites me more than the fibre, because I know that in end we will get this beautiful fibre.

“The demand is there. If we had 50,000kg of cashmere tomorrow, we could sell it all.”

Global market demand for New Zealand strong wool is headed for growth on the architecture and design stage. 

In a move to significantly increase demand and value for NZ strong wool products, Wool Impact, tasked with rebuilding NZ’s strong wool industry, has engaged Gensler, the world’s leading architecture, design, and planning firm, to conduct a market study focused on wool’s positioning, relevance and opportunities for growth within the global architecture and design (A&D) industry. 

Wool Impact chief executive Andy Caughey said the strong wool sector has not been well positioned to respond to the dramatic shifts in the way interior products are selected because it does not have people in-market understanding the needs of brands that do or could use wool. 

“NZ’s strong wool leaves the farmer’s line of sight the moment the wool bales are trucked off the farm, losing the unique attributes of each farm to a commodity system. 

“This prevents brands from selecting and rewarding farmers who are using best practices that are good for the world, and good for their customers. 

“This needs to change,” Caughey said.

The key to unlocking value from these closer brand-grower relationships will be in having deep understanding of wool’s impact throughout the value chain and the selection of supply chain partners that have a shared ethos of value creation and transparency.

“Developing and engaging with global organisations like Gensler, and the manufacturers supplying the A&D industry, is a step change in the right direction to unlock value from closer brand-grower relationships.”

“NZ’s world-leading farming practices, known for their stewardship and expert land management, can contribute significantly to improving ecosystem health, including climate challenges.” 

Caughey said Gensler’s strong commitment to sustainability and expertise in product development were key factors in selecting the firm.

“As architects and designers, specifying sustainable building materials is one of their most substantial opportunities for impact, and the same applies for the manufacturers crafting textiles, flooring and furnishings.”

Earlie this year Gensler launched its GPS standards, a set of baseline and market differentiator standards that defines the baseline sustainability criteria for the high-volume, high-impact and market-ready material categories used in the firm’s projects.

The intent of GPS is to provide clear and concise standards for Gensler’s designers.

“Providing our clients with the best-in-class and services for which we are known includes bringing sustainable solutions to the table from developing the GPS standards to further the A&D industry to supporting the growth of wool as an environmentally conscious fibre through our work with Wool Impact,” Gensler product development leader Benjamin Holsinger said.

To be specified by A&D leaders, wool products like carpet, acoustic products and textiles require environmental metrics at every stage of the value chain.

Caughey said this means what happens on farm is critically important, especially when it comes to carbon footprint.

Select grower groups will function similarly to those of the fine wool sector, with programmes such as NZFAP and NZFAP+ being key accreditation triggers. 

“The need for quality data on farm will drive farm-specific sourcing of wool.  

“We see a clear pathway to value when wool is positioned as a solution to brands’ climate and broader sustainability ambitions that drives attribute and farm specific sourcing of wool.

“It’s not a simple fix. The area of impact assessment is constantly evolving.

“However, we know that for growers to have confidence in the future for wool they need to see partnerships between brands and NZ.

“In working with Gensler the prices we are wanting to secure for growers will take away from the commodity market into very specific purpose, ensuring sustainable prices for growers to continue to invest in their flocks and properties from wool returns.” 

Partnerships will be targeted across the board from existing NZ buyers using strong wool to brands not already using strong wool and companies working with synthetics but looking to expand their programmes around wool.  

“Overall this will drive increased demand and value for NZ strong wool,” Caughey said. 

Gensler will work closely with Wool Impact to translate the inspiring story of NZ’s responsible wool industry into meaningful business metrics. 

These metrics support manufacturers in making informed decisions when sourcing raw goods, generating stronger business paths for growers and supporting the sustainability efforts of the manufacturers.

Wool Impact is planning to announce partnerships with brands supplying Gensler later this year.

There has been plenty of talk about the New Zealand wool industry in recent years, most if it painting a fairly negative outlook.

So it was pleasing to last week hear of some positive steps being taken to promote the under-siege product, both here and overseas.

It started with wool carpet manufacturer Bremworth announcing it was launching a $2 million-plus marketing campaign, designed to address misconceptions about wool but, more importantly, grow exports.

NZ is the world’s third largest producer of wool, accounting for 9% of global production, but, according to Bremworth, the country’s export revenue from wool is projected to fall by 3% to $380 million over the coming year.

A series of new campaigns will be created for local and Australian markets to help lift woollen carpet’s profile.

Bremworth chief brand and product officer Rochelle Flint hopes the marketing investment will help stimulate demand for NZ wool and address the decline in domestic production.

It is interesting to note that research by Bremworth shows that despite three-quarters of homeowners saying they would prefer to have wool in their homes, they aren’t buying the product, instead opting for synthetic products, which continue to dominate the market.

The Bremworth announcement comes as Wools of New Zealand confirmed it has signed an agreement with leading Chinese rug and carpet manufacturer Yangxin Ruixin Group for the company to use Wools of New Zealand branding on its products.

It is the first time the farmer-owned company has reached a deal with a Chinese manufacturer to produce branded products.

Yangxin Ruixin can now use the Wools of New Zealand logo on its products that contain at least 60% Wools of New Zealand-supplied fibre.

The company is located in the Shandong province and produces a range of types of carpets and rugs for the commercial, hospitality and residential markets. It operates the largest hand-tufted factory in China, with 3000 employees.

Wools of New Zealand chief executive John McWhirter said an advantage of the agreement is the ability of Yangxin Ruixin to monitor any Chinese manufacturers falsely claiming to be using Wools of New Zealand wool.

“This is adding to the growing list of Wools of New Zealand partners taking the New Zealand wool story to international consumers.”

And to top off the week there was news that two new wool classing tutors have been appointed at the Southern Institute of Technology. There were fears there may no longer be formal training available in wool classing following the retirement of two long-serving tutors.

Rebecca Braddick and Emma O’Sullivan, who both found their love of wool growing up on family farms, will tutor the NZ Certificate in Wool Technology and Classing (Level 4), the country’s only wool classing programme.

These announcements are unlikely to initially change much for the everyday sheep farmer, but they do show there is still passion and belief in the industry. It is going to take hard work and drive to keep wool in the spotlight, but, thankfully, there are plenty of people who think it is worth the effort.

Wools of New Zealand has signed up to a brand use agreement with leading Chinese manufacturer Yangxin Ruixin.

The agreement will enable Yangxin Ruixin to use the WoolsNZ logo on products that  contain at least 60% WoolsNZ-supplied fibre. 

WoolsNZ chief executive John McWhirter said connecting the NZ wool story through brand alliance will expand the reach to international consumers and help protect the NZ wool brand. 

WoolsNZ already has an extensive trade partner network internationally, but this is the first arrangement the farmer-owned company has entered into with a Chinese manufacturer to produce branded products. 

The agreement was signed by McWhirter and Jimmy Huang of Yangxin Ruixin in Christchurch. 

“We already work with a NZ exporter to China and supply a yarn spinner who sells our farmers’ product into a range of companies in the Chinese market,” McWhirter said. 

“However, this is our first agreement with a Chinese company producing branded products. 

“Yangxin Ruixin will be able to use the WoolsNZ logo on their products that contain at least 60% WoolsNZ-supplied fibre.

“This is adding to the growing list of our partners taking the NZ wool story to international consumers.”

Yangxin Ruixin and the Chinese Embassy approached WoolsNZ to discuss establishing the branding agreement when Huang was in NZ as part of a visiting Chinese delegation. Established in 1998, the Shandong-based Chinese company sells its products under the Silktouch brand in China while exporting under the Ruixin brand.

It produces a range of carpets and rugs for the commercial, hospitality and residential markets and, with 3000 employees, operates the largest hand-tufted factory in China. 

McWhirter said an advantage of the agreement is the ability of Yangxin Ruixin to monitor any Chinese manufacturers falsely claiming to be using Wools of NZ wool. 

“Counterfeit wool claiming to be NZ wool does get sold.

“We have taken action in the past against companies using our logo without permission. “However, it is hard for us to police that in China, so it is very good to have a partner and eyes in the market there. 

“Working with Yangxin Ruixin means they have a brand-authenticated product and an interest in protecting the brand,” McWhirter said.

Two new wool classing tutors have been appointed, easing concerns in the profession that there may no longer be formal training following the retirement of two long-serving tutors.

The Southern Institute of Technology (SIT) has appointed Rebecca Braddick and Emma O’Sullivan to tutor the NZ Certificate in Wool Technology and Classing (Level 4), the country’s only wool classing programme.

They replace Laurie Boniface, who has retired, and Richard Gavigan, who resigned, leading to concerns by the NZ Wool Classers Association that their industry could be left without any formal training.

Asked if the new tutors were each employed at 0.5 full time equivalent, as their predecessors were, SIT declined to answer saying it could not provide details of employment arrangements.

Classers association chair Tracy Paterson said the organisation only learnt of the appointments via the media.

She said the past few months have been disruptive for students with uncertainty whether the course was being held or the profession had a future.

A statement from SIT said Braddick and O’Sullivan found their love of wool growing up on family farms.

Braddick grew up on a North Island sheep and beef farm and has worked as a woolhandler, classer and in education in NZ and Australia.

In 2008 she was the first recipient of a scholarship for a NZ classer mentoring programme designed to encourage young people into the profession.

The scholarship taught her all facets of wool classing and preparation and took her to Australia working with an exporter of superfine Merino fibre that supplied high-end Italian fashion.

The registered NZ and Australian Wool Classer has classed in sheds throughout Central Otago and North Otago and currently classes on Earnscleugh and Olrig Stations near Alexandra and on Lake Hawea Station near Wanaka.

Married with two children, North Island-based Braddick is completing a New Zealand Certificate in Adult and Tertiary Teaching through SIT2LRN.

O’Sullivan was raised on a Marlborough high country farm where she learnt the craft working in woolsheds during school and university holidays.

Currently farming Merino sheep with her husband and three children, O’Sullivan has worked in both blade and machine sheds and has spent more than a decade as an owner classer learning the roles of sorting, grading and classing wool.

She also has a NZ Certificate in Wool Technology and Classing (Level 4) and a Bachelor of Teaching and Learning.

The classing certificate is delivered from SIT’s agricultural Telford campus in South Otago and can be completed part-time over a two year period with five-day block courses available in the South and North Islands.