By Katie Henderson, a PhD candidate at the University of Auckland exploring social licence as it relates to the use of gene editing technologies in the agri-food chain.
Upon returning to New Zealand after a whirlwind agri-food trip in Europe, I’ve been reflecting on what I learnt and observed. The purpose of my trip, organised by Food HQ and sponsored by AGMARDT, was to expose young professionals in the agri-food sector to new and global food system perspectives.
There has been much to unpack, but a key question lingering in my mind is: What is New Zealand’s food culture, and how does it influence our food and fibre sector?
To me, our food (kai) culture and sector are connected in an ambiguous way, but why isn’t it more prominent? Food culture runs deeper than just cuisine. Culture is a way of life, and food and culture are closely linked, influencing each other. If we can strengthen this connection, it could benefit our farmers and producers and add value for both international and domestic consumers.
In the countries I visited, particularly Italy, there was a strong food culture. Food was a vital means of expressing identity, values, and history. Food was not only about eating but also about the rituals of making, serving and enjoying it. Why have a long Italian lunch enjoyed for hours in a large group? So you can really appreciate the food, its quality, and its origins.
Some food experiences, like visiting a cheese factory, might seem cliche or touristy, but the demand for these types of experiences is significant. People want to learn and understand more about the origins of their food.
I visited a producer of Parmigiano Reggiano, a legally protected aged cheese that can only be made in specific regions. Here, we learned about DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). Italy and other European countries use this labelling and traceability system to preserve and protect regionally produced foods.
Another example is balsamic vinegar from Modena. DOP guarantees the product is high quality and made by local farmers using traditional methods. After this visit, I gained a new appreciation for artisan food.
What can we learn from this? It showcases how food provenance can add value to crops and livestock, and create alternative distribution channels for agrifood products. These insights are highly relevant for those operating and interested in growing New Zealand agritourism.
But I would also argue it’s relevant to the wider New Zealand food and fibre sector. Our relationship with food and how it links to our identity, values and history is an important conversation. If we want to capture more value from our food production, we must understand more about our own food culture.
Indigenous knowledge can teach us a lot. We have it at our doorstep, and we need to be willing to listen. We also have rich multicultural influences and an abundance of delicious local food and ingredients.
New Zealand farmers embody ingenuity, resilience, and stewardship. Can we find a way to sell this to the world as a unified package rather than in silos?
As a food-exporting nation, let’s connect people to our food provenance, farming practices, and New Zealand food culture. This could be valuable because culture isn’t marketing. Instead, this culture is authentic and can then be communicated to the world using effective marketing. These marketing messages can appeal to the relationship people have with food in attempts to garner more appreciation of where food comes from.
Domestically, this might involve encouraging people to try more local, diverse, and Indigenous foods. It’s no secret we seem to export nutritionally dense food and import more highly processed foods.
Food festivals like Hokitika’s Wild Foods festival are also fantastic examples of celebrating and rediscovering the pleasure of eating. For urban dwellers, community gardens where people can learn to grow their own food can foster a sense of ownership and more understanding of food production. Strengthening this type of food culture among our communities means it can permeate authentically into our food and fibre production but also contribute to creating a healthier population.
Kai brings people together, so how do we ignite a culture that values feeding ourselves well? This must be affordable too. Farmers, agri-businesses, the government and citizens all have a role to play in this.
What might this look like for New Zealand, and how can we be louder and prouder about our food culture? I think it’s waiting to be explored, redefined, and emphasised not only in our markets but in the community as demand grows for these types of experiences.
For now, I invite you to take a step back from your busy, fast-paced life and really appreciate your next meal. I hope it’s slow, delicious and enjoyed with loved ones.
